A reflection on Milan Fashion Week allegedly shedding its appeal for designer presentations has resulted in a subsequent meeting amongst it’s “Senators of Italian Fashion.” The Men’s Collections for Spring 2014 have nonetheless consisted mainly of quintessentially Italian names displaying an impressive development, and it’s these collections (as well as those of some expats) that resonated with me most.
Members of the rat pack on holida appeared in Thomas Maier’s Bottega Veneta collection, with the Americana of mid century returning via window pane slacks and roll neck knits. Maier dissected the essence (disrection, quality, craftsmanship) of the luxury brand with a tailor’s chalk marked pre-finished garments telling the story of “a work in progress.”
Zucchelli’s blue fantasy gave Calvin Klein a refreshing make over, not to mention being on trend with the monochrome looks. Zipped blousons with fencing mesh portions bore the fruits of his fabric research. Using mainly cottons and wools, he translated organic materials into a futuristic, sci-fi atmosphere.
Minimalism and modernism are made sufficient through the lens of Neil Barrett‘s work. A fragmented lumberjack plaid swurves into blocks of neoprene and leather to embody a simplicity that Barrett is known best for.
Concentration on textiles appeared again in Giorgio Armani‘s collection. Chambray, thick mesh, neoprene, linen, and a blown up knit photographic print on silk were all present. Yet cohesion wasn’t did not go absent. The use of navy throughout kept it strictly Armani.