As the final authoritative voice on what men will be shopping for come Spring, Paris punctuated the shift from classic, fitted tailoring to a collision between that and something a bit more suitable for some activity. A more outdoorsy context was the general direction. We saw some of the most established names in fashion get comfortable this time around, and it consequentially permeated the clothes to the wearer.
Evidently, Dries Van Noten couldn’t even try to come short of consistent excellence with his Women’s and Men’s collections. An alternation of tropicals and florals were layered upon each other in a way I haven’t seen before, not one cheesy print present. The gothic Hawaiian printed shorts with large bullion embroidery on top was something I could see every guy in this coming Spring. The multitude of florals Dries could squeeze into one look while pleasing the eye was truly impressive.
Riccardo Tisci materialized his current obsession with technology and Africa for Givenchy. He’s displayed his International Designer of the year status by pulling two ends of the world, in terms of development, together. A geometric print of stereos dissected and its rearranged elements layed out in primary colors covered nearly every look to illustrate Techno Tribalism. Tisci’s signature of overlaying sheers couldn’t help but make a few appearances.
Backpacks on every back; the essence of hiking culture presented itself in Junya Watanabe’s sweet, amiable mood in this collection. Zipped pockets nearly covering every jacket highlight Watanabe’s signature of displaying inside-out patchwork of a garment’s construction. Not all formal wear is amiss with the presence of dress shoes and a subtle Prince of Wales check on tailored trousers.
Proportions and comfort are the main subject of Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver’s aim with Lanvin here. Some items were oversized, some were fitted, but as a whole the collection made tailored classics look like a comfortable option. This could be result of the designers coming up with a viscose silk blend to make suits out of. One interesting observation is that there were no prints used throughout. The texture provided by mesh and devore were instead utilized to their full potential.