As the 90s decade found itself vicariously living through 2014s Spring Collections through numerous spaghetti strap crop tops, bias cut dresses and overall girl power attitude. Not to mention the amount of monochrome, layering and mesh. Amongst it all, the following provide a breath of fresh air.
The husband and wife duo at Helmut Lang embodied the 90s as well as the monochromatic theme here. However, the minimalism so core to the label exudes, with the only business present in the sheer sleeveless dress with this outlined stripes slashed across. Boxiness has never seemed so fluid.
As Karl Lagerfeld joins forces with Silvia Venturini Fendi, we see great vision. Despite the predicament Fendi might find itself in with collections meant for a warm season, it being a reputable fur house, we don’t find it present. Leavened fur puzzle pieced over un-stiffened organza created a lightness very unexpected out of wearing fur. Another fascinating aspect was the laser cut organza layered in a monochromatic manner.
A spectacular Au Revoir Collection by Marco Zanini for Rochas, who is allegedly headed to Schiaparelli’s soon to be revived house. The excess of devoré as well as ruffles merged two decades of great color; as though the models’ hair is styled to make them appear as ’60s housewives zapped forward to the ’80s. Zanini’s ingenious notion of fabric development gives classics an odd, unwonted twist.
The cleverest of mash-ups waited to show itself at the end of the shows, in Paris at Sacai. Chitose Abe showed her signature of unexpected mixture as she applied a sweatshirt band to gather the bottom half of a largely perforated dress and gave a striped button up shirt basketball short mesh for fabric. The bright tonal aspect gave everything an extra, welcomed kick in sky blue, emerald-green, highlighter pink and electric coral.