LC:M – Fall 2014

I sensed London practicing a general revisitation to it’s distinctive traditions in tailoring this time around. This isn’t to say there was a lack of innovation, yet a fresh confidence in the classics was what I believe made it’s point most strongly. This city nonetheless remains one of the most inviting places for new talent to flock to.
A more than appropriate case in point of one of London’s pride and joy of tailoring, being listed in the address directory at No. 1 Savile Row, is Gieves & Hawkes. The traditionalism here is interpreted in a modern way that makes it more relatable than some of the neighbors on Savile Row. This welcoming reinvention of rigid English tailoring has the new creative director Jason Basmajian to thank for. Taking the reigns just this past year from Brioni previously, Basmajian has managed to teach this old house new tricks which shapes and textiles that display more versatility for a wider customer base.
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Father-son duo Jose and Charlie Casely-Hayford surveyed youth cultures of the past to present the possibilities of what one of the coming future can choose from for inspiration. Sportswear and tailoring are not left out of the mix of punk, skinhead, and grunge kid influences for this collection. I see the dark hawaiian print sweatshirt becoming a fashion staple this coming Fall.
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With pragmatism in her brand’s DNA, Margaret Howell brought one of the most wearable and dare say “chill” collections for this coming fall. A purposely disheveled tailored look suggests coming from the countryside to the city in the same clothes, just straight practicality of wardrobe. As the general consensus goes, she truly is more “clothes” than “fashion,” and I couldn’t be more delighted to see that on the runway these days.
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Minimalism to the extremes is what Lee Roach shouts time and time again with his collections, this time with complete superfluousness disregarded, such as collars being left out in most jackets and coats. There’s a clear goal here in advancing the way we think about dressing ourselves, and I couldn’t me in more agreement with the notion.


One thought on “LC:M – Fall 2014

  1. Great selections in this post! I like your comment about the last designer, and your mention of the collars being left out as an example of how the goal is to achieve a sort of functional minimalism.


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