Women’s Collections – Fall 2014

The past couple of seasons have brought us a handful of much anticipated debuts, some of which have recently shown for Fall. With the excitement of seeing new talents at the helms of some of the biggest names comes an inevitable and heightened proclivity towards making comparisons between everyone. Here’s who I thought showed us all who’s boss this time around.
Scott Sternberg released the first Band of Outsiders shoe at their soon to open Soho store space in New York; a classic, slim oxford. Speaking of classics, playing with them appeared to be somewhat of a theme. The Band signature bandage skirt came out with a trompe l’oeil effect illustrated on it, and so did a pair of indigo sweat pants. Floating grey-scale raspberry graphics floated down navy tailored office-wear. From a broad point of view, it was a refined and understated collection that couldn’t keep you from taking a closer look and realizing the unexpectedly tweaked nature of it all.
LV_zipskirt LV_jackettucke
LV_crocpleat LV_crocbooties
Nicolas Ghesquière kept us on the edge of our seats for long enough, with leaving Balenciaga well over a year ago we’ve immensely anticipated seeing him in action as his career is NOWHERE near over. In what better light to see him than at the helm of Louis Vuitton after Marc Jacobs’ fourteen year tenure? It appears as though Paris was all emotions, to say the least, before, during and after the show. We felt a 60’s vibe with A-line silhouette’s grazing the thighs and prominent zip up point collars. But regardless of how far back in time this collection goes in aesthetic, Ghesquière is consistent with his signature state-of-the-art craft. Animal hides appeared patched together in their various multifaceted forms, whether it was leather, suede or croc. His ability to cohesively pair that black croc zip up bodice with a knit multi-media skirt prevents any hints of trashy. I can’t help but mention I could live in those mahogany croc booties.
CL_wrap CL_tunic
CL_pleatpant CL_indigo
In Paris, an alluringly intimidating, mysterious and well-traveled woman walked the catwalk and could feasibly be seen on the streets. Christophe Lemaire kept himself from the trend of experimenting with textiles in order to vamp up the drama via volume, which yielded oxymoronic modest sensuality. Simple fabrics like indigo denim, ribbed knits and felted wools haven’t made a woman look this intriguing in a long while.
CK_tuliplace CK_trashfurV
CK_tissuestack CK_colorguard
Christopher Kane continues to prove that his enhanced budget only provides a means for an even more enhanced amount of creativity, meaning that a pressure to produce more just doesn’t appear to challenge him. His collection shown in London for this Fall was large and filled with new images. In one instance nylon meshed with guipure lace and in another it laid with fur; synthetic and cheap meets delicate and regal. Kane’s imaginative capabilities seemed to peak towards the end with multiple layers of silk organza ruffling like a stack of napkins in the wind.


One thought on “Women’s Collections – Fall 2014

  1. I love your picks, yet again. I’m glad you chose Christophe Lemaire because I didn’t know about him at all, and now I feel he may be a new favorite of mine, especially with this collection’s experiment with volume. Your commentary seems to be expanding and is spot-on, especially with the Louis Vuitton and Christopher Kane collections.


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